LEICESTER MODELLERS
  • Home
    • Friends from across the pond
  • Club News
    • Contact Us
  • Where we were
    • Shows 2019
    • Shows 2018
    • Shows 2017
    • Shows 2016
    • Shows 2015
    • Shows 2014
    • Shows 2013
    • Members Outings Archive >
      • 29th August 2011 - Tanks, Trucks & Firepower
      • Slapton Sands
      • 1991 Munsterlager, Germany - September
      • 1989 Budge Collection
  • Model News
    • Nostalgia: Matchbox Catalogue 1979/80
    • British >
      • Mk.A Whippet
      • Centurion Mk.6 (NATO)
      • FV214 Conqueror Mk.1
      • Scammell Pioneer SV2S
      • FV432 Mk.3 'Bulldog'
      • FV432 Mk.2/1
      • AEC Matador
      • Chieftain Mk.10 - Alan
      • Chieftain Mk.11 - Alan
      • Chieftain Mk.11 - Richard
      • Churchill Mk IV w/Mk5 L/50 6pdr Gun
      • A39 Tortoise build - Phase 1
    • Israel >
      • IDF Merkava 1 'Hybrid'
      • IDF Nagmachon Heavy APC
      • IDF Nagmachon (Doghouse I)
      • IDF Nagmachon (Doghouse II)
      • IDF Nagmachon (Doghouse II) x2 - Tony
      • IDF D9R Armoured Bulldozer
      • IDF APC Puma
      • IDF Magach 6B 'Gal Batash'
      • IDF M88A1 ARV
      • IDF Sho't Centurion 1967
    • USA >
      • M8 Greyhound Armoured Car
      • That War in Korea
      • M31 ARV
      • Ford Model T 1917 Ambulance
      • US Army VAI Tractor
      • GMC w/Bofors 40mm AA Gun
      • GMC 750 Gallon Fuel Tanker
      • M4 Sherman 75mm 'Normandy'
      • M26A1 & M45 Pershings
    • Russia >
      • 9A52-2 SMERCH-M
      • Ukraine KrAZ 6446 Tractor 1 - Trailer >
        • Ukraine KrAZ 6446 Tractor 4 - Load [T-64BV Mod.1985]
      • Soviet AT-1
      • Soviet BA-10 Armoured Car
      • Soviet GAZ-AAA Mod. 1941 Cargo Truck
      • Soviet T-10M Heavy Tank
      • Soviet T-35 Heavy Tank - 'Early'
      • Soviet 152mm M1937 ML-20 Howitzer
    • German >
      • 17cm L40/K Heavy Artillery Railway Gun
      • Sd Kfz 234/2 'Puma'
    • Other Nations/Genres >
      • Airfix Bae Nimrod
      • G6 Rhino SADF
      • UAE 'Jobaria' Multi-Launch Rocket System
      • Dioramas >
        • Diorama - Entrance Gate
        • Land Rover WMIK - Back to Bases
      • Gerry Anderson's Angel Interceptor
      • A Plausible Reality >
        • T28 Super Heavy Tank >
          • M28-A2
        • M1089/GTS Wrecker >
          • New Base
        • M26A1-B2 General Pershing 20pdr
        • M26A1-G2 **
        • M26A1-G3**
    • Model Gallery
    • Madness or Passion >
      • Barry 'Grevous' Hartley - IPMS Bolton
      • Peter Mells - Sutton Coldfield
      • Ladislav Hancar
  • It's for real
    • Wheeled Vehicles
    • Modern Tracks
    • WW1 Vintage Trucks
    • Aircraft >
      • FL 282 V-6 'KOLIBRI'
    • British - WWII Tanks >
      • Cruiser & Light Tanks >
        • Tank, Cruiser, Mk IV (A13 Mk II)
        • Tank, Cruiser, Mk V, Covenanter (A13 Mk III) - Covenanter
        • Tank, Cruiser, Mk VI (A15), Crusader II, Gun Tractor MkI
        • Tank, Cruiser, Mk VIII, Cromwell (A27M), MkIV
        • Tank, Cruiser, Comet I (A34)
        • Tank, Light, Mark VIb 'Vickers'
      • Medium Tanks
      • Infantry Tanks >
        • Tank, Infantry, Mark II.A. (A12) Matilda II Mk II
        • Tank, Infantry, Mark II, (A12), Matilda II CDL
        • Tank, Infantry, Mk III, Valentine, MkIX DD
        • Tank, Infantry, Mk III, Valentine, MkII Bridgelayer
        • Tank, Infantry, Mk IV (A22), Churchill MkI
        • Tank, Infantry, Mk IV (A22), Churchill MkIII, ARV
        • Tank, Infantry, Mk IV (A22), Churchill MkIII, AVRE
        • Tank, Infantry, Mk IV (A22), Churchill MkVII
        • Tank, Infantry, Black Prince (A43) - Part 1 >
          • Tank, Infantry, Black Prince (A43) - Part 2
          • Tank, Infantry, Black Prince (A43) - Part 3
          • Tank, Infantry, Black Prince (A43) - Part 4
      • Tank, Heavy Assault, Tortoise (A39)
      • M3 Light Tank, 'Stuart'
      • Churchill ARV Mk2
      • Sherman BARV
      • Sherman V
      • M4A4 / Sherman V
      • M10A1 'Achilles'
    • British - WWII Other >
      • 17pdr Anti Tank Gun
      • Daimler Dingo MkII
      • T17E1 'Staghound A/C
      • British Light Trucks of WWII >
        • Austin K2Y Ambulance
        • Bedford MWD Utility Vehicle
        • Guy Ant 15cwt GS
      • British Medium Trucks of WWII >
        • Bedford 'O' series
        • Bedford QLR - Command
        • Bedford QL Refueller
      • British Prime Movers of WWII >
        • AEC Matador
        • Morris Commercial CDSW
      • Scammel Pioneer 6x4
      • Ward LaFrance Wheeled Recovery Vehicle 6x6
    • British - Modern >
      • Alvis Saladin Armoured Car
      • Bedford RL 3-ton Armoured Lorry
      • BV202 'Snowcat'
      • Ferret Scout Car Mk1/2
      • The CVRT Family - Britain's S..... Tanks
      • FV103 Spartan APC
      • FV432 APC
      • FV432 Medical APC
      • FV4101 Charioteer Tank Destroyer
      • M32 ARV - Kosovo
      • Snow Trac w/'Wombat' L6
      • Conqueror Mk2 ARV
      • Centurion >
        • Centurion Mk5 - SMW 2013
        • Centurion ARV's
        • Centurion ARV
        • Centurion ARVII
        • Centurion AVRE 32 AER
        • Centurion AVRE
        • Centurion BARV
      • Chieftain >
        • Chieftains of the 32 AER
        • Chieftain AVRE - Fascine Carrier
        • Chieftain AVRE
        • Chieftain 'Stillbrew' 1992
      • Challenger
      • Warriors
      • Land Rover series 2, 1959
      • Scammell Commander
      • Foden & Mercedes
    • German >
      • Krupp 21cm Heavy Howitzer
      • Sd Kfz 7
      • Panzer IV D/H
      • King Tiger II
      • Ford V 3000
      • Opel 1.5 ton Truck
      • Phanomen Granit 1500L
    • Russian >
      • Scud B
      • Soviet GAZ-AA/MM 1.5ton Truck
      • Stalinez ChTZ S-65
      • T34/85
      • T34 ARV
      • ZIS-131 (ZIL-131) Command Post
    • USA - WWII >
      • M3 Whites Scout Car
      • M3A1 Half Track
      • M4 Sherman '105mm'
      • M4A2 Sherman 'Lucy Sue'
      • M5 High Speed Tractor
      • M8 Greyhound Armoured Car (C-23)
      • M16 Multiple Gun Carriage
      • M16A1 Multiple Gun Carriage [converted M3]
      • M20 Utility Car
      • M26 Dragon Wagon
      • M29 Weasel
      • Dodge WC-63
      • International Harvester Tractor Crane
      • American WWII Trucks
    • USA - Modern >
      • M42 Duster
      • M46 Patton
      • M74 ARV
      • M88 Armoured Recovery Vehicle
      • M110 HMC
      • M113 - Lakenheath EOD
      • M578 ARV
    • Other Nations/Genres >
      • Camaro 454
      • AMX-30B
      • Canadian Quad 20mm Oerlikon
      • Canadian Ram 'Kangaroo'
      • M3A1 'Stuart' Light Tank
      • M48 Patton Israeli Defence Force
      • Tiran 5
      • T-55 Iraq 1991
      • T653 Chinese ARV
    • Sadler's Russia >
      • Autovaz Museum
      • Balabanovo Museum
      • Klerk Cape Training
      • Ostrogozhsk Equipment
      • Smersh - What do keep in your garage?
  • Build Club
    • Build Club: Sessions 2019
    • Build Club: Sessions 2018
    • Build Club: Sessions 2017
    • Build Club: Sessions 2016
    • Build Club: Sessions 2015
  • Hints & Tips +
    • Techniques [Part 2]
    • Techniques [Part 1]
    • Tools
    • Weathering >
      • Concrete - Hard standings
      • Buildings & Furniture
      • Russian Camouflage Schemes
      • Tank Cemetary

Chieftain Mk.10
14th/20th Kings Royal Hussars

Kit by: TAKOM (2028)
Build by: Alan Brown
Started: 23rd September 2015

model News
Picture01. Happy! Happy!
Well, look what came in the post today! - Thanks Richard, and as promised it's a quick review and off the starting gate with a full build.

The large kit box measures in at 380x250x85mm and weighs about a kilo. Molded in a light grey plastic and with chunky sprues the parts have good sharp detail. Care will definately be needed removing the parts from the sprues.

The plastic is 'a little' soft but Tamiya Extra Thin Cement will be my glue of choice and so-far, it's working fine. It should be noted that although this kit is not necessarily for the beginner,  it is not going to be hard work - at least so far? You will need a fresh, new blade in your scalpel.

The Photo-Etch parts are very fine, detailed and though there looks a lot, there are some large pieces.

Your view around the Spru!

Picture02. Start time
Phase 1 and Getting started: I decided to build the main hull first, rather than the running gear as would be normal. This is because a good amount of painting will be required on the running gear during assembly.

Phase 1
ended just over 1 hour later with the main hull together and the rear exhaust section also completed. More later....

Picture
03. Good basic detail but no seperate engine deck - that will save some time.
Picture
04. Just 3 parts has the hull together, this build will hopefully be Tamiya Quick!
Picture
05. For the Mk.10 you have to remove a few pre-molded parts like the bullet splashes around the drivers compartment. I used my micro-chisel for this.
Picture
06. Moldings removed. Not very pretty and if there wasn't a next part I would have been much more gentle here. Some holes were then drilled for locating pins.
Picture
07. The Stillbrew hull panels added
Picture
08. The instructions follow the newer exploded CAD view and come in 22 sections across 13 pages. A noticeably smaller manual that would normally be expected.
Picture
09. Front stowage bins added and the fit on the vehicle is excellent. However, parts C7, 8 & C30, 31 need to have some of the reverse removed by sanding down, they are too thick!
Picture
10. Those famous Chieftain bins and bumper strips have now been added and again, the fit is excellent.
Picture
11. The rear exhausts fit perfectly on the back box. I still have a fair bit of extras to add to the hull before I progress on to the Turret. But, then again, I may just not follow the rules??
Picture
12. The extra fittings along the right side complete the larger parts of the upper hull. Following Richards comment on the anti-slip, so detail will need to be added on the front glacis.
I have, up to now, only been actively building this kit for around two and a half hours! Yup!

With the clean-up actually taking a bit longer than I would normally expect this is still going together very well. Some small amount of filler will be needed but nothing to shout about.

So far, I would say that Takom have done well and congratulations too go to Richard for supplying them the information whithout whom, this vehicle would not be forthcoming so soon.

I have all the others arriving with the main shipment and hope to build them shortly.

Picture
13. Section 16, top left window: The poly-caps (inside the bag of track-links) fit parts D21 & D22 but are way too small for the receiver in parts D33. They wobble inside the fitting.
DO NOT fit the Main Gun barrel at Section 16 - I shall be leaving mine until much later.

Flexi-plastic part M2 (labelled Gun Mask) is shown to be fitted at section 16 - Don't do it! The part has to mould around the 'V' section on part G1 shown in section 17. Once G1 is fitted, it is practically impossible to fit the Gun Mask to it - without a lot of swearing!!

Suggest strongly that you fit part M2, to part G1 and then to the turret roof. Next, thread the trunion mount (parts D21, 22 & 33) and join the upper and lower turret together.

You can add the main barrel if you want to.
Picture
14. This poly-plastic gun mask (barrel shroud) doesn't float my boat! You can't elevate the gun barrel anyway.
Picture
15. Section 18, Parts J11 & D18 button up the main elements of the turret. Some fettling away of the reverse of part J11 which butts up to the forward Stillbrew armour is neccessary.
Picture
16. The fettling allows for a more snug fit, although a hairline gap is left. I used the tubed Vallejo Masila Plastica 401 for this which provides a pencil thin bead of filler.
Picture
17. The fitting of the turret side bin was awkward, you wouldn't think so to see it. This part would benefit from proper locating pins instead of what is offered.
Picture
18. Time to start the running gear! There are 3 pairs of bogie units.
Picture
19. These suckers are such a simple assembly of just 4 parts. Clean-up takes about 5 minutes and the assembly a couple more.
Picture
20. These units don't look that much but once installed you kinda 'get it!'
Horstman Suspension:The system uses coil springs and has the advantages of a relatively long travel and, consisting of a self-contained bogie that is bolted to the outside of the hull, causing little or no encroachment on internal hull space. In addition, the entire suspension unit may be relatively easily removed and replaced if damaged, e.g., by mines.

The name "Horstmann suspension" also refers to suspension built by the Horstman company (now Horstman Defence Systems Ltd) whether of the bogie type, torsion beam design, hydrogas, hydropneumatic or other.                                             (source: Wikipedia)

Picture
21. The forward bogie (unit D) installed.
Picture
22. A full set as per the instructions.
Picture
23. Easily the best non-workable tracks I've ever done.
When constructing the Tracks I decided to prepare an asembly jig so, I measured the distance between the centres of the first and last road wheels. This would determine the longest run of track and the maximum length of my Jig. I used some scrap plastic card and rod to create a 3-sided frame and using some of the links ensured that the track fitted snug for assembly. This process can be applied to all track Jigs.
Picture
24. Construction of the Headlight arrays. Some filler was needed as the locating holes are a bit too large.
Picture
25. Attaching the main searchlight. I have not fitted the glasing part as I'm having the main door closed.
Picture
26. Commanders side Stowage Bin took a few minutes but was a fairly simple construction. The etch is very fine.
Picture
27. The Commanders bin fitted to the turret. I still have the Cable Reel to add here.
Picture
28. The Loaders Stowage Bin under construction - I am liking these bins a lot.
Picture
29. The rear stowage bins are fitted and the vehicle is starting to look closer to finished.
Picture
30. Loaders stowage bin installed and having taken care with the construction, it is a seamless fit. Eureka!
Picture
31. In between taking photo's of last nights Blood Moon I applied a coat of matt black to the deck area and attached all the engine grills and handles.
Picture
32. Not my best picture! But, there are several fine PE parts (hooks) to be added and they install extremely well into pre-formed slots.
Picture
33. With the exception of the bubble-gum light (M7) which sits atop of part G2 the turret is now complete and ready for paint.
Picture
34. The Commanders cupola has 11 glasing parts so the painting will be tricky. I have kept the cupola roof and base section seperate from the main turret.
Picture
35. This is now an impressive looking beast and worthy of the effort. Although we are now at around 10 hours for the build so far it hasn't been too challenging.
Picture
36. I finally added the mudguard brackets and Bullet Splash to finish the build section.
Picture
37. Onwards to getting the Track sorted out with some distressing of each of the Track-Pads. Each of the 6 sprues had a different pressure and texture as they all distress differently.

The state of the build on 30th September 2015

1st October 2015 and the Painting begins!

Picture
38. 6 Sprues, 6 distressed finishes using varied grades of sanding stick and file.
Picture
39. You can see here, 1 track-pad from each sprue and each ever-so slightly different.
Tracks are Tracks Right? ....... Actually NO! Each country/Era has its own formula and finish which also changes from foundry to foundry.

For the Chieftain I have chosen to complete the actual Tracks and Track-Pads seperately to the point of weathering. The Track-Pads were first painted in Vallejo Model Air Matt Black and left to dry for half an hour. Following this the pads were brushed with Vallejo Panzer Aces Dark Rubber and allowed to dry for a further hour.

I then formed a dry powder mix from MiG Pigments and scrubbed them into each pad to help weather in some wear and tear. The pads are now ready and are all placed into a bag.
Picture
40. Using my own Black and Steel mix I have coated the track using a standard old paint brush.
Picture
41. Meanwhile, the Tracks are given a wash of Vallejo Model Wash Brown, dried off and then Dark Brown and again dried.
Picture
44. Track-Pads now added. The fiddly touch up with paint actually took longer than building the track.
Picture
42. My vehicle scheme of choice. Using this guide and pictures from the Internet I copied the paint plan onto the bazooka plates.
The Berlin Brigade created this Scheme of Urban Disruptive Camouflage which is an early form of digital camouflage.

Whilst this camouflage proved effective in city areas, it was completely useless in the open areas and countryside.

I have only done paint masks to this level once before, on a 'what-if' build. So, this is somewhat new territory for me. But first, the vehicle needs an undercoat and I'm torn between a medium Grey or Black. Before that though it's Maskol time on the clear parts and that will take a while!
Picture
44. Realising that I will be undercoating the Bazooka Plates I transferred the information onto Tamiya Masking Sheets.
Picture
45. A paint match based on the guide given to me by Richard Kent (using Humbrol) - builder of the Mk.11 - he should know!

Some colour matches for the Berlin Scheme from 3 popular paint ranges
I'm not sure if any are 'correct' but, I'll let you know how it all turns out?

Humbrol Enamel:
US Ghost Grey (127)
Chocolate Brown (98)
Dark Green (30)
Vallejo Model Colour:
Sky Grey 70.989 (154)
Chocolat Brown 70.87 (149)
Gunship Green 70.895 (088)
AMMO from MIG:
Blue Grey A.MIG-210
Medium Brown A.MIG-070
NATO Green A.MIG-084
The Process:
* Cut from outline the desired shape - Bazooka Plates -  and stick directly to the kit part.
* Next, using a new Swann Morton No.11 blade CAREFULLY, and using a ruler, cut along the pre-determined lines for each colour panel.
* ALWAYS, have a cutting mat available.
* I used a Chisel Head, No.2 brush for applying the paint.
* And, take your time, it's not a race!

SIMPLES!  .....BUT ....... mind your fingers!
PS. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it....

Picture
46. I did the Brown first so, remove all the panels marked 'B' and temporarily stick in sequence to the mat. Thoroughly mix your paint and apply.
Picture
47. After leaving for a couple of hours to dry, carefully replace the panels and remove the once marked 'G' (Grey) and repeat the process.
Picture
48. Getting bored? Do another part or have your Tea. You're nearly done ..... Next, replace the 'G' panels and repeat sequence with the 'W' panels. I used Vallejo 70.820 (004) Off White here as pure white is too harsh.
Picture
49. The White is the hardest to apply! BUT, once you're happy with the finish, carefully remove all the panels and VOILA! (Some minor touch up of the panels may be needed, I used a No.1 brush for this).
Picture
50. Meanwhile, the rear deck, Underside, Lower Hull, reverse side of the Bazooka Plates, under the Turret and Commanders Cupola were sprayed with the NATO Green. This was left to dry overnight.
Picture
51. So, we start the Berlin Block on the Chieftain Hull - as with the Bazooka Plates, I begin with the Chocolate Brown
Picture
52. The panels were checked with both the paint plan and the Bazooka Plate sections for overlap
Picture
53. Even the rear hull does not escape scruitiny. I have free-handed all the panels and only masked off a couple of sections
Picture
54. Surface anti-slip is provided by Chinchilla Dust (thanks Kev!) which was sprinkled on then secured by dropping spots of glue to seal them - repeat until satisfied
Picture
55. Again the Chocolate Brown. I free-handed the painted panels using the painting guide and it is evident that there are anomolies with the plans - Oooops TAKOM!
Picture
56. The plan views on the painting guide are confusing as they do not relate to each other - especially the top and front turret views (look back at picture 42) - there's work to do here!

Here is how the turret camouflage should look

Picture
Special 1. You can see how much this image differs from the painting plan
Picture
Special 2. Here in a parade the camouflage is clearly different
Picture
Special 3. The best picture yet of the turret top camouflage
The fundamental idea behind this camouflage was to disrupt the vision of the enemy by making the Green vehicle blend more with the Urban ladscape of coloured doors, windows and buildings and their more angular shapes.

The design was similar to the Dazzle Camouflage used by the Royal Navy during the 2 World Wars in breaking up the shape making it harder to identify exactly 'what' it is.

Picture
57. Unfortunately, the painting guide (top view) bares little relation to the actual 'real' vehicles in-service
Picture
58. Quite a bit of re-worked painting has taken place this morning to get the turret something-like a proper finish
Picture
59. As reference, Google can still be your friend but you should always try to get archive pictures and not museum examples.
Picture
60. This grey panel went through 3 variations during the research mods being undertaken
Picture
61. This is much better, and more like it should be.
Though my finish may not be the best overall hopefully, this will give you the information to move along.

Many others over the years have also had this issue with their Tamiya & Accurate Armour (their paint guide looks correct) Chieftain builds.

In many cases, the camouflage paint was done 'by hand', with a paint brush so, I too have followed the same approach with this vehicle. Masking this one would have been a Royal Pain anyway!

Ready for inspection on the build so-far? Newark/Lincoln Show, here we come!

Well! I took this build to the Newark Show too everyones delight and received several comments (mostly good) regarding the build.

The constructive comments were extremely positive too and the advice received vary welcome due to the very poor reference available on the internet. The Tankograd publication: Berlin Infantry Brigade Group is currently out of print.

Comments indicate that the anti-slip is too pronounced (fair comment) and the Commanders cupola was also painted in the camo grey - result!
Picture
61. I attacked the Chinchilla Dust anti-slip with a cheap screwdriver scraping off all the detail. It already looks better.
Picture
62. Although this left a roughened surface, to do any more would compromise the original kit and ruin the outcome.
In Summary: Whilst this build is technically finished, I'm not completely happy with the result. Firstly, it needs a Crew and this will happen in time but I have to get a bit better with face painting. Secondly, I have made mistakes during construction, most recogniseable is the anti-slip finish and using a larger grade grit than the scale would allow for. Thirdly, the paint finish could be better but with the time constraints I gave myself and the modifications neccessary due to incorrect and poor information this was the best I could achieve.

I would like to thank:
Richard Kent for my kit (a completely unexpected surprise), measurements and a wealth of knowledge of this particular vehicle
Derek Hansen of Accurate Armour for the missing information so desperately needed, some decals which replaced the oversized ones in the kit along with some good advice.
Kevin Wilson, Phil Heggs, Richard Allen, Malc Ireson and a host of others offering support and advice

I still have the Mk.5/5P & Mk.11 to build so I'll be honing my skills on those and may well return to the Mk.10 at a later date for a rebuild!

On 3rd November 2015 I'm calling this FINISHED!

Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.