01. Happy! Happy!

Well, look what came in the post today! - Thanks Richard, and as promised it's a quick review and off the starting gate with a full build.

The large kit box measures in at 380x250x85mm and weighs about a kilo. Molded in a light grey plastic and with chunky sprues the parts have good sharp detail. Care will definately be needed removing the parts from the sprues.

The plastic is 'a little' soft but Tamiya Extra Thin Cement will be my glue of choice and so-far, it's working fine. It should be noted that although this kit is not necessarily for the beginner,  it is not going to be hard work - at least so far? You will need a fresh, new blade in your scalpel.

The Photo-Etch parts are very fine, detailed and though there looks a lot, there are some large pieces.

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Your view around the Spru!

02. Start time

Phase 1 and Getting started: I decided to build the main hull first, rather than the running gear as would be normal. This is because a good amount of painting will be required on the running gear during assembly.

Phase 1 ended just over 1 hour later with the main hull together and the rear exhaust section also completed. More later....

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03. Good basic detail but no seperate engine deck - that will save some time.

04. Just 3 parts has the hull together, this build will hopefully be Tamiya Quick!

05. For the Mk.10 you have to remove a few pre-molded parts like the bullet splashes around the drivers compartment. I used my micro-chisel for this.

06. Moldings removed. Not very pretty and if there wasn't a next part I would have been much more gentle here. Some holes were then drilled for locating pins.

07. The Stillbrew hull panels added

08. The instructions follow the newer exploded CAD view and come in 22 sections across 13 pages. A noticeably smaller manual that would normally be expected.

09. Front stowage bins added and the fit on the vehicle is excellent. However, parts C7, 8 & C30, 31 need to have some of the reverse removed by sanding down, they are too thick!

10. Those famous Chieftain bins and bumper strips have now been added and again, the fit is excellent.

11. The rear exhausts fit perfectly on the back box. I still have a fair bit of extras to add to the hull before I progress on to the Turret. But, then again, I may just not follow the rules??

12. The extra fittings along the right side complete the larger parts of the upper hull. Following Richards comment on the anti-slip, so detail will need to be added on the front glacis.

I have, up to now, only been actively building this kit for around two and a half hours! Yup!

With the clean-up actually taking a bit longer than I would normally expect this is still going together very well. Some small amount of filler will be needed but nothing to shout about.

So far, I would say that Takom have done well and congratulations too go to Richard for supplying them the information whithout whom, this vehicle would not be forthcoming so soon.

I have all the others arriving with the main shipment and hope to build them shortly.

13. Section 16, top left window: The poly-caps (inside the bag of track-links) fit parts D21 & D22 but are way too small for the receiver in parts D33. They wobble inside the fitting.

DO NOT fit the Main Gun barrel at Section 16 - I shall be leaving mine until much later.

Flexi-plastic part M2 (labelled Gun Mask) is shown to be fitted at section 16 - Don't do it! The part has to mould around the 'V' section on part G1 shown in section 17. Once G1 is fitted, it is practically impossible to fit the Gun Mask to it - without a lot of swearing!!

Suggest strongly that you fit part M2, to part G1 and then to the turret roof. Next, thread the trunion mount (parts D21, 22 & 33) and join the upper and lower turret together.

You can add the main barrel if you want to.

14. This poly-plastic gun mask (barrel shroud) doesn't float my boat! You can't elevate the gun barrel anyway.

15. Section 18, Parts J11 & D18 button up the main elements of the turret. Some fettling away of the reverse of part J11 which butts up to the forward Stillbrew armour is neccessary.

16. The fettling allows for a more snug fit, although a hairline gap is left. I used the tubed Vallejo Masila Plastica 401 for this which provides a pencil thin bead of filler.

17. The fitting of the turret side bin was awkward, you wouldn't think so to see it. This part would benefit from proper locating pins instead of what is offered.

18. Time to start the running gear! There are 3 pairs of bogie units.

19. These suckers are such a simple assembly of just 4 parts. Clean-up takes about 5 minutes and the assembly a couple more.

20. These units don't look that much but once installed you kinda 'get it!'

Horstman Suspension:The system uses coil springs and has the advantages of a relatively long travel and, consisting of a self-contained bogie that is bolted to the outside of the hull, causing little or no encroachment on internal hull space. In addition, the entire suspension unit may be relatively easily removed and replaced if damaged, e.g., by mines.

The name "Horstmann suspension" also refers to suspension built by the Horstman company (now Horstman Defence Systems Ltd) whether of the bogie type, torsion beam design, hydrogas, hydropneumatic or other.                                             (source: Wikipedia)

21. The forward bogie (unit D) installed.

22. A full set as per the instructions.

23. Easily the best non-workable tracks I've ever done.

When constructing the Tracks I decided to prepare an asembly jig so, I measured the distance between the centres of the first and last road wheels. This would determine the longest run of track and the maximum length of my Jig. I used some scrap plastic card and rod to create a 3-sided frame and using some of the links ensured that the track fitted snug for assembly. This process can be applied to all track Jigs.

24. Construction of the Headlight arrays. Some filler was needed as the locating holes are a bit too large.

25. Attaching the main searchlight. I have not fitted the glasing part as I'm having the main door closed.

26. Commanders side Stowage Bin took a few minutes but was a fairly simple construction. The etch is very fine.

27. The Commanders bin fitted to the turret. I still have the Cable Reel to add here.

28. The Loaders Stowage Bin under construction - I am liking these bins a lot.

29. The rear stowage bins are fitted and the vehicle is starting to look closer to finished.

30. Loaders stowage bin installed and having taken care with the construction, it is a seamless fit. Eureka!

31. In between taking photo's of last nights Blood Moon I applied a coat of matt black to the deck area and attached all the engine grills and handles.

32. Not my best picture! But, there are several fine PE parts (hooks) to be added and they install extremely well into pre-formed slots.

33. With the exception of the bubble-gum light (M7) which sits atop of part G2 the turret is now complete and ready for paint.

34. The Commanders cupola has 11 glasing parts so the painting will be tricky. I have kept the cupola roof and base section seperate from the main turret.

35. This is now an impressive looking beast and worthy of the effort. Although we are now at around 10 hours for the build so far it hasn't been too challenging.

36. I finally added the mudguard brackets and Bullet Splash to finish the build section.

37. Onwards to getting the Track sorted out with some distressing of each of the Track-Pads. Each of the 6 sprues had a different pressure and texture as they all distress differently.

The state of the build on 30th September 2015

1st October 2015 and the Painting begins!

38. 6 Sprues, 6 distressed finishes using varied grades of sanding stick and file.

39. You can see here, 1 track-pad from each sprue and each ever-so slightly different.

Tracks are Tracks Right? ....... Actually NO! Each country/Era has its own formula and finish which also changes from foundry to foundry.

For the Chieftain I have chosen to complete the actual Tracks and Track-Pads seperately to the point of weathering. The Track-Pads were first painted in Vallejo Model Air Matt Black and left to dry for half an hour. Following this the pads were brushed with Vallejo Panzer Aces Dark Rubber and allowed to dry for a further hour.

I then formed a dry powder mix from MiG Pigments and scrubbed them into each pad to help weather in some wear and tear. The pads are now ready and are all placed into a bag.

40. Using my own Black and Steel mix I have coated the track using a standard old paint brush.

41. Meanwhile, the Tracks are given a wash of Vallejo Model Wash Brown, dried off and then Dark Brown and again dried.

44. Track-Pads now added. The fiddly touch up with paint actually took longer than building the track.

42. My vehicle scheme of choice. Using this guide and pictures from the Internet I copied the paint plan onto the bazooka plates.

The Berlin Brigade created this Scheme of Urban Disruptive Camouflage which is an early form of digital camouflage.

Whilst this camouflage proved effective in city areas, it was completely useless in the open areas and countryside.

I have only done paint masks to this level once before, on a 'what-if' build. So, this is somewhat new territory for me. But first, the vehicle needs an undercoat and I'm torn between a medium Grey or Black. Before that though it's Maskol time on the clear parts and that will take a while!

44. Realising that I will be undercoating the Bazooka Plates I transferred the information onto Tamiya Masking Sheets.

45. A paint match based on the guide given to me by Richard Kent (using Humbrol) - builder of the Mk.11 - he should know!

Some colour matches for the Berlin Scheme from 3 popular paint ranges
I'm not sure if any are 'correct' but, I'll let you know how it all turns out?

Humbrol Enamel:
US Ghost Grey (127)
Chocolate Brown (98)
Dark Green (30)

Vallejo Model Colour:
Sky Grey 70.989 (154)
Chocolat Brown 70.87 (149)
Gunship Green 70.895 (088)

AMMO from MIG:
Blue Grey A.MIG-210
Medium Brown A.MIG-070
NATO Green A.MIG-084

The Process:
* Cut from outline the desired shape - Bazooka Plates -  and stick directly to the kit part.
* Next, using a new Swann Morton No.11 blade CAREFULLY, and using a ruler, cut along the pre-determined lines for each colour panel.
* ALWAYS, have a cutting mat available.
* I used a Chisel Head, No.2 brush for applying the paint.
* And, take your time, it's not a race!

SIMPLES!  .....BUT ....... mind your fingers!
PS. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it....

46. I did the Brown first so, remove all the panels marked 'B' and temporarily stick in sequence to the mat. Thoroughly mix your paint and apply.

47. After leaving for a couple of hours to dry, carefully replace the panels and remove the once marked 'G' (Grey) and repeat the process.

48. Getting bored? Do another part or have your Tea. You're nearly done ..... Next, replace the 'G' panels and repeat sequence with the 'W' panels. I used Vallejo 70.820 (004) Off White here as pure white is too harsh.

49. The White is the hardest to apply! BUT, once you're happy with the finish, carefully remove all the panels and VOILA! (Some minor touch up of the panels may be needed, I used a No.1 brush for this).

50. Meanwhile, the rear deck, Underside, Lower Hull, reverse side of the Bazooka Plates, under the Turret and Commanders Cupola were sprayed with the NATO Green. This was left to dry overnight.

51. So, we start the Berlin Block on the Chieftain Hull - as with the Bazooka Plates, I begin with the Chocolate Brown

52. The panels were checked with both the paint plan and the Bazooka Plate sections for overlap

53. Even the rear hull does not escape scruitiny. I have free-handed all the panels and only masked off a couple of sections

54. Surface anti-slip is provided by Chinchilla Dust (thanks Kev!) which was sprinkled on then secured by dropping spots of glue to seal them - repeat until satisfied

55. Again the Chocolate Brown. I free-handed the painted panels using the painting guide and it is evident that there are anomolies with the plans - Oooops TAKOM!

56. The plan views on the painting guide are confusing as they do not relate to each other - especially the top and front turret views (look back at picture 42) - there's work to do here!

Here is how the turret camouflage should look

Special 1. You can see how much this image differs from the painting plan

Special 2. Here in a parade the camouflage is clearly different

Special 3. The best picture yet of the turret top camouflage

The fundamental idea behind this camouflage was to disrupt the vision of the enemy by making the Green vehicle blend more with the Urban ladscape of coloured doors, windows and buildings and their more angular shapes.

The design was similar to the Dazzle Camouflage used by the Royal Navy during the 2 World Wars in breaking up the shape making it harder to identify exactly 'what' it is.

57. Unfortunately, the painting guide (top view) bares little relation to the actual 'real' vehicles in-service

58. Quite a bit of re-worked painting has taken place this morning to get the turret something-like a proper finish

59. As reference, Google can still be your friend but you should always try to get archive pictures and not museum examples.

60. This grey panel went through 3 variations during the research mods being undertaken

61. This is much better, and more like it should be.

Though my finish may not be the best overall hopefully, this will give you the information to move along.

Many others over the years have also had this issue with their Tamiya & Accurate Armour (their paint guide looks correct) Chieftain builds.

In many cases, the camouflage paint was done 'by hand', with a paint brush so, I too have followed the same approach with this vehicle. Masking this one would have been a Royal Pain anyway!

Ready for inspection on the build so-far? Newark/Lincoln Show, here we come!

Well! I took this build to the Newark Show too everyones delight and received several comments (mostly good) regarding the build.

The constructive comments were extremely positive too and the advice received vary welcome due to the very poor reference available on the internet. The Tankograd publication: Berlin Infantry Brigade Group is currently out of print.

Comments indicate that the anti-slip is too pronounced (fair comment) and the Commanders cupola was also painted in the camo grey - result!

61. I attacked the Chinchilla Dust anti-slip with a cheap screwdriver scraping off all the detail. It already looks better.

62. Although this left a roughened surface, to do any more would compromise the original kit and ruin the outcome.

In Summary: Whilst this build is technically finished, I'm not completely happy with the result. Firstly, it needs a Crew and this will happen in time but I have to get a bit better with face painting. Secondly, I have made mistakes during construction, most recogniseable is the anti-slip finish and using a larger grade grit than the scale would allow for. Thirdly, the paint finish could be better but with the time constraints I gave myself and the modifications neccessary due to incorrect and poor information this was the best I could achieve.

I would like to thank:
Richard Kent for my kit (a completely unexpected surprise), measurements and a wealth of knowledge of this particular vehicle
Derek Hansen of Accurate Armour for the missing information so desperately needed, some decals which replaced the oversized ones in the kit along with some good advice.
Kevin Wilson, Phil Heggs, Richard Allen, Malc Ireson and a host of others offering support and advice

I still have the Mk.5/5P & Mk.11 to build so I'll be honing my skills on those and may well return to the Mk.10 at a later date for a rebuild!

On 3rd November 2015 I'm calling this FINISHED!